Please Note: As of October 27, 2015 there has been corrections to this pattern! All corrections will be underlined. Sorry for any inconvenience!
Part wrap, part sweater, Madge is a simple, top down knit with a little seaming. The sides are knit the same, but the snap placement is what can give it an asymmetrical look-or not. I have written a pattern for sizes 32-44. I used Lion Brand Wool Ease in oxford grey, but any worsted weight yarn will do. My first choice would be Cascade 220, but the older I get the more allergic to wool I become. Wool blends are all my skin can take, and this worked like a dream.
The construction of this sweater is one rectangle, with two holes for sleeves. The back and shoulders are a bit fitted. I wanted the look of a wrap with sleeves.
Please contact me with any questions.
Gauge
20 stitches = 4 inches stockinette stitch
13 stitches = 4 inches double moss stitch
Sizes
32(34,36,38,40,42,44)" Note-knit your bust size. Your sweater will be bigger than that to allow for overlap.
Yarn
950(1000,1100,1250,1300,1350,1450) yards worsted weight yarn
Needles
US 7 circular 24"
4 double pointed needles or US 7, or1 16" circular needle
Notions
2 snaps (optional)
scrap yarn (I find using a contrasting color works best)
darning needle
4 stitch markers
Abbreviations
CO- cast on
BO- bind off
SM- slip marker
K- knit
P- purl
K2tog- knit two stitches together
M1- Increase one stitch by knitting into the front and back of next stitch
PM- place marker
RS- right side
WS- wrong side
Stitches
Double Moss stitch- Row 1 *K2, P2, rep from *
Row 2 *P2, K2, rep from * last 2 stitches P2
Row 3 as row 2
Row 4 as row 1
Repeat these 4 rows
Stockinette stitch
Right Side- knit
Wrong Side- purl
2x2 Rib
RS- K2, P2
WS- P2, K2
repeat these two rows
With longer circular needle CO 98(102,106,110,114,118,122) K in double moss stitch for six inches- this is your collar.
Next RS row- staying in moss stitch, knit 30(32,32,32,34,34,34) PM, K 6(6,6,6,6,6,6) PM, K 26(26,30,34,34,38,42) PM, K 6(6,6,6,6,6,6) PM, K 30(32,32,32,34,34,34)
Next Row- (WS) knit in pattern slipping all markers
Next Row-(RS) Start sleeve increases. K in pattern until marker, SM, M1, K until 1 stitch before next marker, M1, SM. Continue in moss stitch until you reach other marker and repeat, K in pattern until end.
Continue working body in double moss stitch and sleeves in stockinette stitch, increasing for sleeves every RS row until increases measure 7.5(8,8,8.8,9,9.5)"on the diagonal, ending with WS row.
RS row, K in pattern to marker, remove marker and slip sleeve stitches on scrap yarn (I like to use a contrasting color) and remove other marker. CO 6 underarm stitches, K in pattern and repeat for next sleeve.
Continue in double moss for 7" under arm stitches.
Next row RS- work in stockinette stitch until body measures 14(14,14,14,15,15,15)" or desired length.
Next Row- RS start purl ridge hem (the length of your sweater will end here) P one row
WS-P
RS-K
continue in stockinette stitch for 10 rows, BO
Finishing Sides- Pick and K all stitches on RS. Work in stockinette stitch until work measures 6".
Next Row- RS work purl ridge hem, BO
Repeat for left side
Sleeves- With smaller circular needle, or double pointed needles, pick up and K all sleeve stitches, including the six stitches you cast on under the arm, PM Work in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 4" from underarm.
Sleeve Decreases: K 3 stitches before marker, K2tog, SM, K1, K2tog
K sleeve in stockinette stitch for 2" more, start 2x2 rib until sleeve measures 17(17,17,17,17,17.5,17.5)" or desired length (measurements shown are for a longer sleeve) BO in pattern
Finishing: Sew bottom and side purl ridge hem by folding on your RS purl row and slip stitching into place. Slip stitch collar into place, or sew on two snaps on each end of the collar-this is where you can play around. Both sides are knit the same, but the snap placement can give you an asymmetrical look, which is what I did.
I highly recommend a wet block before wearing.
Enjoy your sweater!
90 comments:
Forgive my newbieness, but is the pattern Suze based on bust? I am a 38/40 C, size 16 clothes. So would I choose either the 38 or 40 as the pattern size? This is just beautiful work, btw!!
I mean size.
love this, cannot wait to cast on :).. Glad to know i am not the only one with wool issues the older i get :)
I would like to make this sweater wrap, however do you have schematics for this pattern?
I also am wondering about the sizing. I am a 40DD and usually wear size 16 or 1X but I like my sweaters to be loose, so a size up. I absolutely love this sweater though and also wonder if there is a schematic and if there are any tips to make it in larger sizes?
What an amazing and contemporary garment. Our daughter is expecting in March and this sweater wrap would be perfect for the new mom or even the soon-to-be new mom. I am a visual learner and would appreciate a schematic picture as well. Also when you posted the sizes should I be looking at actual bust size or finished size.
Thanks very much for sharing this terrific pattern.
I assumed the sizing was European, which would mean the sizing goes roughly from 0-12 US, respectively. (i.e., a 32=0, and 44=12)
I would love to make this, but don't understand the sizes?
Thanks,
Kathy
Ladies! First thank you for your questions and comments. Pattern is for bust size. As far as shape, this is a rectangle with holes for sleeves. Part wrap, part sweater. I will try to get a picture up today!
Does 32 mean the person has a 32" bust or that the finished size is 32"? I want to knit something with a bit of positive ease, but not too much. :) (I think my mom and I are going to do our own little finish-it-by-Christmas KAL!)
I love this pattern....love top down patterns.
I love the way it is written ...easy...simple....only took front/back of one paper.
don't have printer....phone ...so I have to copy. Still love this way....thank you got sharing.
I love this pattern....love top down patterns.
I love the way it is written ...easy...simple....only took front/back of one paper.
don't have printer....phone ...so I have to copy. Still love this way....thank you got sharing.
I can't wait to make this model. WHEN, oh, WHEN will the schema with the measurments will be available??? Ik hope very SOON!
I have updated the pattern a bit and hopefully that will help! Knit your bust size. I am a 34, so that is what I knit. There is quite a bit of positive ease in front so you have lots of overlap at collar and shoulders, then angles down across bust. The back and shoulders are fitted, so your sweater will be bigger in the front and smaller in the back to give more of a wrap look.
This is awesome! Thanks so much for designing and sharing Madge. I've reposted onto my own blog, Dances with Wool. Can't wait to knit it up. Love your blog, Katy.
Hi - Am looking forward to knitting this - one question though. What does the abbrv "SM" stand for. It says either SM, M1 or M1, SM - understand the M1 but not the SM ??
Thanks Joanne
SM means slip marker. I will add it to the abbreviations! Sorry about that!
LOVE it, katie!
i just printed the pattern. :) xx
Sm =slip marker
M1= make 1= cast on a stitch
What a nice lady you are to share this wonderful pattern. I'm sick but soon as I can get out I'm going to JoAnne Fab. Thank you.
Maybe I missed it, but how much yarn does this pattern need?
Hello there! I have listed the yarn amount in yards under yarn....hope that helps! Happy knitting!!
Thanks, sorry if I missed it previously.
I am totally confused about the sleeves. My stitches don't add up.
You are right about the stitch count. I am very sorry about that and I have edited that. Please email with other questions or errors that you find, and I will try to help.
Hello, thank you for sharing this pattern. I haven't made this sweater yet, it is near the top of my list. I have read through it several times and I believe the moss stitch is missing rows 3 and 4 that should be p2 k2 for row 3 and k2 p2 for row 4, repeat these 4 rows for the pattern. Otherwise I believe it is a double rib pattern. Thank you again, it looks so comfy.
Thank you for bringing that to my attention! I have edited that, and I am so sorry for the mistake! Please let me know if you see anything else! I clearly need a test knitter for my next pattern!
It's fantastic that you are adding all these corrections. But it would be even more helpful if you can add them in red font so those who've already started or printed thr pattern can know exactly what has been updated. :)
Thank you so much! What a great tip! My blog design only allows one color in the body of my post, unless it is a link :( I did underline all changes and wrote at the top that is what I did. Thank you for helping and commenting in such a nice way! I so appreciate it.
Hello All...
I'm a HOOKER (Crocheter)...
Is there a way this pattern can be converted
to crocheting so that us "hookers" can join in on
the fun?
Oh, I would love that! I don't crochet, but would like to learn! If any hooker out there want to convert pattern, please do and I will post it here!
On the instruction after you pick up all the stitches under the arm you add 6 stitches under the sleeves in both side but when you pick up the stitches for the sleeve the no mention of adding 6 stitches to mach the body stitches, how you will sew the sleeve to the sweater?
You continue to knit the body while sleeve stitches are on scrap yarn. When you start to knit the sleeves, you pick up all sleeve stitch, plus the 6 stitches you added. It will create a circle, and you will knit in the round.
I have been working on this beauty pattern for couple days, notice now the back stitches are too small for the real size! Say knit size 34, the back is 26 stitches, whitch is about 5.2" long between two shoulders, isn't it too narrow? help please..... Really really like to make it
I made the 34 as well. It is fitted through the back, bigger in front. Once you knit sleeves it is the perfect fit. Slim fit, and not baggy is what I was going for, like having a wrap with sleeves. I hope this helps.
The gauge for moss stitch is 13 stitches = 4" (I have updated this in pattern), across back, for size 34" should be 8"
Hello - what a BRILLIANT pattern! I am zooming through Madge and loving every second of it! I am about to pick up the stitches along the edge for the shawl collar, and was wondering -- if I pick up *all* the way down the edge, even through the purl ridge hem, and then knit the 6" of collar, and then knit a purl ridge hem for the collar as well, will that mean that at the bottom corner of the collar, the two purl ridge hems will come together and create a quadruple-thickness potentially bulky corner? I wasn't too sure how it ended up, and so wanted to double-check on how you did yours and how you liked the look of that particular junction..... :)
I am so glad you are enjoying it! You are right, it does not end up being very thick. I was surprised, but glad it worked!
I must have missed something. When I knit moss stitch on size seven needles, I come up with the same gauge as my stockinette. I get five stitches per inch on size seven needles or a smudge less than 20 stitches in 4". Should I change needle sizes for a particular area or add two stitches? Or should I assume there is going to be enough stretch to make up for this? If that is the case, when should I move up to size 10 needles?
Since everyone knits at a slightly different gauge, I would do what will work best for you. If it were me, I would add some extra stitches.
After overthinking this and realizing most of the stitches are close enough or even the same number of stitches... I figure I'll just go for a bigger bust size. You did say that there is overlap and to go with breast size. Worst case scenario- I'll have more toasty-warm merino wool wrapped around me.
Yes, there is a lot of overlap, but I don't think you can mess it up! Can't wait to see!
Ok, maybe a dumb question. But when you say "bust size" do you mean the ribcage size (like the number on bra sizing), or the measurement at the fullest part across the breast? Thanks!!
Measurement around fullest part of bust
Super, thanks!
I just finished knitting this sweater. I will be wet blocking it this weekend and sewing the hems. At this point i would like to put on the snaps for the closure but am having a hard time figuring out where to put them. Would you be able to post a photos of where the placement is?
You can do anything you want. I sewed mine on the inside, so they were not showing. First I tried it on to see where a good place would be. I would wait until after you block and play around with it.
Can you just clarify whether I should be continuing in double moss stitch or switching to stocking stitch (that's what we call stockinette stitch in Oz) between the 6 stitch markers. Thanks from very stormy Sydney, Paula
Paula,
All sleeve stitches should be in stockinette stitch. It starts with six for each sleeve and you increase these stitches on every right side row. All increases should be in stockinette stitch, so your sleeve will grow.
Thanks Kate. One last (I hope) question for you. How many times should the sleeve decreases be done? Just the once, or every row until the ribbing starts? Hope you're having a fabulous Christmas, Paula
I just did 9ne sleeve decrease. The ribbing really tightens it up!
I'm just starting this pattern and trying to understand. Do I ever join any stitches/rows in the round at all on the circular needles? Or are you using the circular needs as straight needles?
Have been looking for a 'wrap coat' pattern for ever and ever.......Love this pattern. If I want to make it into a coat, would it work if I just continued to knit down the length? or would that spoil the fit and 'drape'?
Thanks for this pattern! It is coming together quickly. One question...on the sleeve increases it says to measure on the diagonal. It looks like a triangle when I'm knitting. What do I actually measure to determine if I have done enough increase rows?
When measuring the diagonal at the shoulder, is the measurement from the initial stockinette stitch row down one of the sides of the stockinette until it reaches the desired length?
I absolutely love this pattern! The sweater came out beautifully! I used baby alpaca & went up a full size in the needles for the right gauge & put a hidden button on the inside flap & a cool metal clasp on the shoulder on the exposed other side. Thanks for posting the pattern. I'm off to get more yarn, in a different color, to make another one!
Thank you for this lovely pattern. I am having difficulty understanding how to keep the double moss stitch pattern going after casting on 6 stitches under the arm. If I am knitting k2, p2, k2 and then knit the 6 cast-on stitches p2, k2, p2, then I am picking up the existing moss stitch on a k2? Perhaps I did something wrong when increasing in St st. Any advice?
I have questions about these 2 lines of instructions:
Next RS row- staying in moss stitch, knit 30(32,32,32,34,34,34) PM, K 6(6,6,6,6,6,6) PM, K 26(26,30,34,34,38,42) PM, K 6(6,6,6,6,6,6) PM, K 30(32,32,32,34,34,34)
Next Row- (WS) knit in pattern slipping all markers
For line 1, are you saying to do all knit stitches; do double moss pattern, or do a single moss pattern?
For line 2 above, what do you mean by knit in pattern? Does that mean continue with the next row in double moss pattern?
Thanks,
Kara
I've found a problem in this pattern. And I'm 8 inches in and now have to start over. :(
Double Moss stitch is incorrect as currently written. Correct double moss pattern is actually:
Row 1: K2, P2*
Row 2: K2, P2*
Row 3: P2, K2*
Row 4: P2, K2*
Source:
https://www.thespruce.com/double-moss-stitch-2117086
I would like to thank you for posting your pattern for us to use! I love the design and have been searching for something like this and there is nothing out there until I came across your's. I am not finished it yet and have been having problems with the gauge, so I went up to size 9 needles and a size larger in the pattern because even with size 9 needles is was only getting about 3 1/4 inches for 13 stitches in the moss pattern. I am using Cascade Boliviana mereno yarn which says it's a worsted weight. I am excited to get it finished! Thank you again, I love the design!!
You are very beautiful, I like to buy it.
IBCbet
Hi! I'm having some trouble with my gauge, and I'm hoping you can help me out. The pattern says 13 stitches = 4 inches in moss stitch. I have tried it on a few different sizes of needles, and I'm averaging somewhere around 18 stitches with worsted weight yarn? What am I missing? Thanks!
*Double moss stitch, not moss stitch.
Do you have a picture of the layout measurements?
I had a sweater I am wanting to recreate. The style is very similar minus the patterns. My sweater was a simple pattern and I think the collar was part of the rectangle, not attached to it. This is a very lovely sweater indeed.
I'm currently working on this pattern and couldn't find an answer to the following (from last year - July 17, 2017))
I have questions about these 2 lines of instructions:
Next RS row- staying in moss stitch, knit 30(32,32,32,34,34,34) PM, K 6(6,6,6,6,6,6) PM, K 26(26,30,34,34,38,42) PM, K 6(6,6,6,6,6,6) PM, K 30(32,32,32,34,34,34)
Next Row- (WS) knit in pattern slipping all markers
For line 1, are you saying to do all knit stitches; do double moss pattern, or do a single moss pattern?
For line 2 above, what do you mean by knit in pattern? Does that mean continue with the next row in double moss pattern?
Thanks,
Kara
JULY 17, 2017 AT 6:45 PM
Thank you Rita R.
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Hi, I'm in the process of making this! Loving it so far, but I have a question. When M1 for the sleeves increases, should not I M1 right and then M1 left to get a smoother finish?
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Well done on making the pattern . the st is called a box stitch actually . Yes I had to go up a needle and wonder if my back will be wide enough ? maybe I will move marners on back out 2 st on each side . Its a cool looking sweater . TY.
Well done .
i like it .
i am knitting it but where is the diagonal meas taken tom put sleeves on waste yarn ? TY in advance
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